Jazzfest in New Orleans

This was not my first trip to New Orleans, and it won’t be my last. I always wanted to get here before the next hurricane hit the city, because it was well known that it could possibly wipe out the entire city. Katrina may not have taken all of New Orleans away, but it will definitely not be the same. I look forward to going back, but I will forever regret not taking any pictures during either of my two previous visits.

I arrived in New Orleans on Saturday, April 30, with only one day left of Jazzfest. I have wanted to attend this festival for many years, and people have always told me that if you go once, you will want to go forever. I now understand why. I was very fortunate to be set up there by a very good friend from Santa Barbara, who is a native of the Crescent City. She got me a place to stay and store my stuff, as well as good people to hang out with at the fest.

The actual festival part, which I attended on Sunday, has the best arrangement of food and music than any other festival I’ve been to. But it only goes until 7pm, and it’s only on the weekends. That leaves a mass of musicians roving all over town, sitting in with all sorts of other musicians in many one-time-only shows that you just need to be in the right place at the right time to see. That is why one goes to Jazzfest for a whole week, instead of only a couple days (not to say that one night in New Orleans isn’t worth going for…). It’s these shows that will occur at all the various clubs around town, and at any time of night.

After unloading my stuff, I rested my head on one of the longer couches I’ve ever been on. As tempting as it would have been to just lay there and doze the night away after another long day in the car, it was the last night in town for some friends of mine from New York, who had been going strong since Tuesday and had to catch a flight at 10am the next morning. Sleeping really wasn’t an option.

My idea for the night was to keep enough money in my pocket, and just let New Orleans take care of me. Success!

I met my friends at a block party on Frenchmen St., where they told me about a show at the legendary Tipitina’s in Uptown. That show was Umphree’s McGee, a band from Chicago. It was four years ago that I met my friend, Jen, from New York, and it was at an Umphree’s McGee show. We hadn’t seen each other for at least a three years, so it seemed only fitting that we had to go to that show.

Midnight quickly turned into 3:30, and since the Umphree’s show was scheduled at 2am, we figured they had just taken the stage (typical of the night shows). As much as I wanted to stay and watch the bands on Frenchmen St play their hearts out to many-a-dancing fans, we grabbed a cab to Tipitina’s. I had not seen Umphree’s play for a couple years, and they were really on fire. We caught the last couple songs of their first set, which ended around 4am (meaning they could have started almost on time). Second set was amazing. The place was packed, and everyone was dancing like crazy. After a few hours, some people in front of me turned around and had a look of amazement on their faces. It was something we probably all knew was coming, but either we didn’t want the night to end, or it was hard to believe they were still playing as the sun was coming up. Probably both.

I’m not sure when they started, probably around 2:30am, but I am sure it was 7am when they finished their second set. My friends had to go pack up and catch their flight, and if they were going to be able to go to Igor’s one last time, they had to leave then. I kind of regret not going to Igor’s, especially hearing more about it from others the next day, but it’s apparantly a staple of Jazzfest, a place where everyone goes in the morning after being up all night. As much as I wanted to go, I really wanted to catch the encore, so I stayed. When they got back on stage, someone in the band exhaustingly remarked “C’mon, we’re all in this together”; then they continued to blow us away.

After a brief nap, I got up around 1:30pm on Sunday and headed to the last day at the festgrounds, where I got to see Aaron Neville, Isaac Hayes, the Radiators, Trey Anastasio, and Particle with Mickey Hart. After the fest, I was fortunate enough to attend my first, authentic New Orleans crawfish boil at a local’s house. You would think one 30 gallon tub of steamed crawfish is a lot, until you see the bucket next to it of live ones, just waiting to get boiled.

I am forever indebted to the wonderful friends, and their friends, who gave me the best experience I could have imagined. New Orleans wouldn’t have been the same without all of you. Thank you so much.

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