Mt. Cleveland

Mt. Cleveland, at 10,466 feet, is the highest peak in Glacier. I hadn’t given a lot of thought to climbing it until some coworkers said they had asked off to do it one week, so I arranged my schedule accordingly. It was definitely one of the more memorable hikes, for better or worse (read on for the full story). It’s a long hike, and we got back kind of late, but it was well worth it.

We began by driving to Waterton Lakes in Canada, where we caught the boat down Waterton Lake to Goat Haunt, a backcountry ranger station/border crossing in Glacier. From there, we hiked down to our campsite at Kootenai Lakes, which is a popular moose habitat. We arrived at the lakes around 11am, after taking the first boat from Waterton. Since we were also the first to arrive, we got to see these moose before they ran away.

After leaving our packs, we hiked down the trail to Stoney Indian Lake. This is a shot from the foot of that lake, looking up at Stoney Indian pass.

Here are some wildflowers on the north side of the lake. Unfortunately we were in quite a hurry, so I didn’t wait the couple minutes it would have taken for the sun to come out of the clouds and brighten up the flowers.

From the lake, we left the trail and scrambled uphill to a notch in the ridge connecting the Stoney Indian peaks. Here is a shot from the hill, below the notch, of Stoney Indian Lake.

This shot is from the notch, looking down at the lake. You can also see one of my climbing partners in the rocks in the center of the picture.

This is looking the other way (north) from that notch. Glenn’s Lake is below right, and Whitecrow Mountain is in the background on the left.

Also from the notch, this is looking at our impending traverse behind the Stoney Indian peaks, and eventually up Mt. Cleveland (the small white-colored peak), which is the highest point in the center-right side of the photo.

These two shots were taken just below the summit of Mt. Cleveland. They fit together, with the first one being on the left. In the first, Mt. Merritt is on the left. It is one of the other 10,000 foot-plus peaks in Glacier (there are only six in the park). Also, the notch we climbed to can be seen on the far right of the first picture, and in the left-center of the second picture. The second photo gives a great view of the three Stoney Indian Peaks, and the traverse we made from the notch on that ridge.

As you may have been able to tell by the sunlight and shadows, it was getting a little late in the day by the time we reached the summit of Cleveland. This shot is of the Texas boys on the summit. Mike, holding his GPS (possibly looking at the time too), may be saying to himself…”Oh shit, it’s 8:15pm and we still have 6000 feet to descend.”

This one is again looking east towards the Stoney Indian peaks and beyond. When you are on the highest point in the park, there isn’t much obstructing the views.

We were also very lucky to have such a clear day, as there were some wildfires in eastern Washington that made our skies very hazy in the previous few days.

So, as I mentioned, we summited kind of late, and before we had a chance to make it off the cliffs, the sun set. As you can maybe tell in this photo, we are about even with the distant ridgeline, which is still quite high.

Also as I mentioned, it was a 6000 foot descent from the top of Cleveland to our campsite at Kootenai Lakes. We did not take the same route down to Stoney Indian lake, but instead went out the Camp Creek drainage, which intersects with the trail less than a half mile from our campsite. That being said, we had no established trails to hike down on. Once we finally got off the hill and hit Camp Creek, it was well past the fall of darkness, and being near the new moon, the stars were giving us our only natural light (we also had headlamps).

The first part along the creek was not bad. It consisted mainly of crawling over very large boulders until we hit the forest. Judging by the map, we had a good two miles of bushwhacking through the forest until we hit the trail and our campsite. Being 1:15am, we were hoping to keep about a 1-mile per hour pace and make it back by 4am. Bushwhacking is never fun, especially in the dark, and this hike was no exception. Unfortunately I didn’t take any pictures, but we did come across a spot where a bear had bedded down and had a bite to eat (a large, flattened area which contained a small pile of bones and teeth). Even though the bear was probably there weeks ago, you still don’t feel the urge to stand there and take photos. We also ran across a pretty nice waterfall that hardly anyone has probably ever seen. This may be because the bushwhack in from the trail to see it would not be worth it.

At around 4:30am, we were at a point where we could see the spires of the Citadel peaks through the trees, so we knew we had to be close to the trail. Regardless, we all laid down for a five minute rest that lasted about 45 minutes after we all dozed off. I awoke first and noticed there weren’t many stars out, meaning the sun was coming. We hiked about 5-10 more minutes along the creek until we hit the trail and eventually our campsite by 6am or so.
I also regret not taking any pictures of the 4-5 moose we saw in Kootenai Lake, but I guess my priorities at the moment were sleep, food and water.

The next day, the Texas boys hiked on to another camp where they prepared to climb Mt. Merritt. Dustin and I went back and caught the boat back to Waterton. Here is a shot of the massive Mt. Cleveland, on the left, from the boat.

774 Responses to “Mt. Cleveland”

  1. scottwickizer.com » Blog Archive » Hike across Glacier Says:

    […] p://scottwickizer.com/images/boulder%20pass001.jpg”> Looking east from Boulder Pass. Mt. Cleveland (the highest peak in Glacier), is in the distant center. […]

  2. Denis Twohig Says:

    Scott,
    I was cleaning up my home office recently and came across a sticky note with your web address, so have just logged on. I don’t recall that we met last summer in Glacier, but somewhere in the shuffle I got your web address. I enjoyed reading your account of Mt. Cleveland that turned into an obvious mini-epic. Cleveland shouldn’t be easy. The things memories are made of. Congratulations!

  3. pat keane Says:

    Scott,

    Found your stuff on the Poia Lake Caves while surfing for info. I worked in Glacier in 1973 and found a honeycomb system near there, including a waterfall in a room obviously offset by a fault, as the tube jumped up about twenty feet. Saw your shots and don’t think the cave you were in is the one I was in. But I’m going back to document the cave I found soon and I’d sure like to talk to you.

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